the old Peruvian National Library building as portrayed on the back of a hundred soles banknote |
Traffic in Lima is unquestionably brutal. Driving is a cut throat business that, if you’re not too worried about your blood pressure, can be quite exhilarating, requiring aggression and creativity in equal parts.
The last
time I was living there, I was passenger in a taxi which got involved in a bit
of a fracas in the street. Needless to say heated gestures ensued, and as the
taxi driver drove off he spat out one word at the other motorist …. serrano.
He nodded
and smiled knowingly at me in the mirror. But I chose to remain silent in the
back. Serrano, of course, means someone
from the mountains.
There’s no
doubt that things are far different now from the times when tio Hernan was
writing his Anecdotes. But for me words tell stories, and the traffic incident was testament to a society still grappling with the lingering subtleties of racism and inclusion.
Tello was a
mountain Indian who overcame financial difficulties and social obstacles to reach
the position he did. He was a fierce advocate for indigenous communities, and I
think his single minded refusal to be intimidated by the coastal elites of the
time is a large factor in the legendary status he holds today for some
Peruvians.
The rags to
riches angle is inspiring. But in this story Hernan, who was himself from the
central Andean highlands, takes issue with what he sees as a somewhat
patronising portrayal of his hero. And reminds his readers that the concepts of
money and position then, as now, can often be relative.
Poor
but not quite destitute
Wherein we learn of the reason for Tello's brief accomodation crisis and his subsequent rescue by an eminent Peruvian historian
Wherein we learn of the reason for Tello's brief accomodation crisis and his subsequent rescue by an eminent Peruvian historian
Two
days after Tello’s death there appeared an article in La Tribuna under the
title Julio C Tello, Illustrious Amauta. I
believe it’s possible that this article has been the source of some resulting
biographies grossly overstating Tello’s supposed penury.
It
is true that his father and uncles were poor, but they were the type of
traditional country land and livestock owners who may not have had a lot of
money but were still respected leaders of the community in Huarochirí.
Don
Julián, Tello’s father, was many times mayor and governor, as was his uncle
Luis.
Tello’s
father was of the opinion that the best inheritance he could leave to his son
was the advantage of a good education and to this end he put him in one of
the best schools in Lima. This is not the act of an impoverished farm hand and
the legendary tale of poverty is not strictly true.
Neither
are the accounts of how the famous author and scholar Ricardo Palma came to
give permission to Tello, penniless and homeless in Lima, to sleep in a corner
of the caretaker’s gatehouse at the National Library.
It
was as a youngster at school in Lima that Tello’s long lasting friendship with
Ricardo Palma’s son (also named Ricardo) began. Later on they studied medicine
together and Ricardo Palma senior employed the young medical student for some
time at the library.
Ricardo Palma |
The
Tribuna article suggests that during this time, the young scientist was so
financially embarrassed that he would take the correspondence round to the
historian’s house precisely at the lunch hour so as to be invited to eat
there.
This
may well have occurred a couple of times, but one swallow doesn’t make a
summer. As a matter of fact Tello always recounted to us fondly his memories of
taking round the correspondence at night, as this was the only time he himself
had time off from his classes and his duties at the library. More often than not Palma read it in his bed.
No
… Here now is the real story of Peru’s most famous anthropologist’s short
sojourn at the National Library.
Tello’s
father had part ownership of a house in Lima at four hundred and sixty four
Ilave Street, which until this day remains in the family. This is where the
young Tello lived during his first years in the capital, until he could afford
to rent a room in the city.
Then
Tello lodged for a while with a wealthy family in Lima. They were friends of
his father and gave him board and lodging at a vastly reduced rate, knowing
that this was the only way in which he could continue to pursue his university
studies.
But
one day the owner of the house discovered that the most beautiful of his
daughters had fallen in love with the budding scientist. The outraged father
decided to put an end to these amorous exploits right there and then, and when
Tello arrived home a disagreeable surprise awaited him. His bed and all his
books had been thrown out onto the terrace. He had nowhere to live.
The
situation did not bode well. He knew that his father wouldn’t be able to
increase his already meagre allowance, but it was obvious that he was not
welcome one minute more at his present lodgings. He went to see his best friend Ricardo Palma,
who seeing that there was a very real risk of his friend’s having to give up
his medical studies, spoke to his father.
photo - Biblioteca Nacional del Perú |
The
father immediately took in the gravity of the situation and, knowing Tello to
be a sensible and serious young man, offered him a position at the National
Library.
Tello’s assistant Mejía Xesspe, in his biography of the archaeologist,
recounts for us Palma’s words on securing him the post: “Here you have access
to the whole archive of human knowledge. If you can come to know and recognise
all these literary and scientific works by their covers, then I guarantee you
will become a great man of letters.”
And those are the circumstances due to which Tello found himself staying temporarily at the caretaker’s hut. But as he now finally had a small salary which allowed him to rent a room and to cover the costs of his studies without the help of his father, it was only a matter of a few days before he moved to lodgings in Comesebo Street.
But this is not the end of the story. What of the wealthy gent who had thrown the young student out of his house? Tello, judging that he would not be eager to hear any more from him, asked Palma to send him a letter on his behalf stating that he now held a position at the National Library and would the gentleman be so kind as to forward his belongings to that address.
When
the former ‘landlord’ received a letter signed by none other than the
celebrated historian and scholar Ricardo Palma he was, to say the least,
surprised. He tried his best to retract from his former inhospitable position,
but too late, his lodger had moved on.
Such
is life. The very man who had so disapproved of the love between his daughter
and a young medical student, actually gave a grand dinner in his honour when
some time later he graduated to such acclaim from San Marcos University. Maybe he glimpsed at last a hint of the
shining future that Tello was to have. Do you think he regretted the loss of
such a potentially distinguished son in law? Who knows!
fig 1 Avenida Tacna in Lima today. Previously block three of this avenue was known as Comesebo Street.
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